A crazy inspiration

The view was fantabulous. We were on a broken road, on the edge of a mountain. Down below a thin dry river was flowing and we were moving along with it. The sky was perfect blue, with small white feathered clouds sprinkled all over it. It was a bright sunny morning and the sun was shining at its best but the surroundings were neutralising its effect. In fact we were feeling a bit cold even in that situation. Thanks to Siddhu's research, we were carrying a high SPF sunscreen lotion which we needed to apply every 2-3 hours. A rider is supposed to act tough and feel tough and that was my first doubt on buying a sunscreen, but as usual, I was wrong. Its a must to have a sunscreen lotion with you. The surroundings and the chilled breeze won't make you feel warm and hot but the sun rays won't reduce its effect. There was a high chance for getting a sunburn on the exposed skin, which was usually the face. Dhyani was in charge of the bike now and I was holding the camera on the rear seat. I tried to take as many pictures as I can but was still missing something or the other. The view was like no matter how much time you spend there, just looking in one particular direction, or one particular way, you won't get enough. The mountains were spread as far as you can see, kissing the perfect blue sky, and these mountains were not the regular mountains that we used to see in Dehradoon or the ones we saw in Manali.


These were the perfect desert mountains, with dry rocks, and gravels. At one side, I saw a mountain, far away, and while I was capturing it into the camera, I saw some movement in it. I removed the camera and saw it with my naked eyes. At first I thought was hellucinating but then I realised, without any specific reason, there was a landslide occurring on it. What a beautiful scene it was which was not meant to be captured in the camera. I told Dhyani to stop the bike and look at the view but by the time he removed his helmet and shades, it was over. Maybe I was the lucky one, but as soon as it was over, it occurred to me, what if this happens on the mountain next to me. Phew, that freaked me out for a moment. To be precise, it was the perfect example of a "deadly beauty".

As we were moving forward, and I was capturing pictures suddenly I saw something on the road ahead of us. It was unbelievable to see a guy, on that height of the mountain riding a cycle. As we overtook, I looked back and saw a 50+ year old foreigner with long beard. He was a below average looking thin guy, and he seemed really exhausted. Well, who wouldn't be. He must have started from Manali, and that too in a cycle with a small bag carrying on his back. My condition was miserable last night when I was travelling on a bike. What a hell of a guy he would have been. Marvellous, simply marvellous. He was continuously paddling on the first gear and was moving very slowly over the mountain. As soon as I saw him, instead of taking his photograph, I smiled at him and showed him a thumbs up. His expression totally changed and he smiled back and replied with a thumbs up. Wow, what a crazy fellow he must be, covering the worlds toughest motorable road on a mere bicycle. Even Dhyani was awed by looking at him. Moving further, we saw some more cycle riders on our way. Some taking pictures of the surrounding nature, some taking rest and some struggling their way up the mountain. What an inspiration it was to look at them. Many people will call them crazy, many will call them fools, but they were nothing but Heros, following their dreams. We learned a lot from these strangers, and I was sure there was more to come and in return we were giving them a thumbs up and a smile, just to motivate them, which might help them the same way as it helped us.

Welcome to the Paradise of India

It was a proper black out. Not even a single thought was running across my mind. All I remember was when these guys came back and were preparing the bed, and all I can hear was “abbe ab kya karna hai” and I was down again.

Dawn broke and Ujjwal woke me up. Woah, what a feeling it was, as if it was the first time I felt of being ALIVE. I stood up, and everyone was looking at me. Within these five to ten seconds, the whole journey crossed my mind. All that danger we all went through, all the pain and all the problems, and we were just half way through. It was a physical as well as a mental torture for the all of us. I looked up when Siddhu asked me, “negi, kaisa hai? Kya karna hai ab”? I looked down, closed my eyes. My head was still paining, but not as intense as it was the previous night. I was glad we took a night halt in Manali. If we would have continued, I don’t think I would have reached Sarchu alive. Took a deep breath, stood up and said, “kya matlab kya karna hai, CHALO AAGE”. All of them looked at each other and asked me again, whether I was sure to continue. I smiled and said, “chalo yaar, jo hoga dekh lenge” and I went outside the tent.

Woah!! What an amazing view it was. We reached Sarchu in the dark, so had no idea how it looked, but now I was, standing on a green plains grassland for about one km on each side of the road, and stretched about four km long, everything in between huge mountain range, running parallel to the road. All of them were Desert Mountains, light brown in color, glowing with sunlight all over them, and above them was a clear blue sky. I can smell the freshness in the air, pure air. I stretched my arms, looked up into the sky, and smiled. I was so proud of myself, that I finally made it, WE FINALLY MADE IT. I could recall all the words that the foreigner said to me, and why he was so happy and why he shook my hand and congratulated me.

All I can say is, it was my life best achievement. I turned back, and saw Ujjwal and Dhyani loading our luggage on our Enfields, and Siddhu was trying to ignite the engine. It was cold there, and due to that, the bykes engine was jammed. But within ten minutes, we were all set and Vroom Vroom, we were off. I, as usual, convinced Dhyani to give me control of the byke. I was recharged, confident, and more over very eager to find out, what more this journey has for us. The road ahead of us was not as good as it was before, plus all the riders were starting all along with us and within one km, there was big traffic jam. It was a broken road, with small sand mountains in the middle of road. I was so happy at that moment, that I lost the calculation of my bike luggage and the sand mountain that I bumped into one. Lucky enough, the byke was still under control. Dhyani asked me if I was comfortable, and there was no need to prove anything to anyone. I calm him down and said it was just a small miscalculation. After few minutes, we saw one more water stream ahead of me, but it was a bit safe as compared to the previous day water stream. I was able to cross it, without a single halt, but my fear started when I saw ahead. We were on a mountain and big deep river flowing along with it. We needed to reach the other mountain, which was connected by a bridge. It was an old, iron bridge, but the path on the bridge was made of concrete slabs, and some of them were broken. It was not as dangerous as compared to what we have faced earlier, but my main concern was what if the concrete slabs breaks. I could see down across the broken slabs, river flowing with high current. Dhyani advised me to go slow and easy on the slabs, but I didn’t even heard him. The moment I reached the starting of the bridge, I raced to the end of the bridge. All I could figure out was, the soon we cross the bridge, the better it was. The bridge was connected to the main road. What a relief it was to be on a well constructed road.

Sun was shining, the climate was perfect, the mood was set, and the surroundings were perfect. We all were awed by the views and were enjoying all of it. After a few km, we saw a sign, “WELCOME TO THE PARADISE OF INDIA”. We all stopped on that sign and took some photos standing near that sign. There we all took a small break for a short talk. There Siddhu told me that how all of us were so exhausted and tired last night, and at dinner, they were discussing about me. Everyone knew I was not physically accepting the changes, and was most affected. Even they were physically and mentally tired and came into a conclusion that we all should return back. No one was sure how the road and situation would turn up for the rest of the journey. In the morning, they all decided to came up to me and we all be returning back to our respective places. It was a very important journey for all of us, but all of us were scared, mostly because it was affecting me the most. But when I stood up, and in my condition, I was the only one, who said that we should continue forward, that motivated them and there we were, standing on the Paradise of India. I was all surprised, and dumbstruck, what to say. All I said was Chalo yaar, and we were back on our bykes. On my way, I thought of all the situations and scenarios, and was again very proud of myself. But more than being proud, I was happy.

Stretching my limits

It was around three O’clock and we have still reached our first water stream. Till now, our main focus was to enjoy the scenery, take photograph, and enjoy each and every moment of our journey. But in this we forgot one essential thing, our “tight schedule”. We actually were very slow as compared to what we should be covering till then. Our aim was to cover till Sarchu before it gets dark. As per our instructions, we were not supposed to ride in the dark. The main reason was that in dark, if by any chance, some land sliding is there or some rock came down the mountain, there will be no chance that we could survive. Plus, Sarchu was the only place where we will be getting a tent for a night halt. No other place will provide us with accommodations. We enquired from other riders, and were told that there was a hell lot to cover. Plus in between, there was another pass that was to be covered. Baralacha la Pass, which was 13,054 feet above sea level. As per our last Rohtang Pass experience, I was sure, if we get the same road as we got in Rohtang, we are screwed. But we had no other option other than to face it. So, we decided to gear up and cover it without stopping. We all were exhausted, talked a lot till now, so there was neither mood nor situation for more chatting. We started our bykes and Vroom Vroom, we well off. Best part of heavy cc vehicle is it can carry a heavy load, and still runs like hell. No more stopping, no more photo session, just talking with the winds. Dhyani kept asking me to give him control, as he was just sitting at the back seat since five in the morning. But I was too stubborn to listen to him. Sometime I get this crazy fits, and once it’s decided, it’s decided. No more turning back. All I wanted was to see how much I can stretch my limits. So all I said to Dhyani was to gimme some more time. Luckily, the rest of the road was newly constructed. We rode like thunder on a nonstop one hour long ride on a long and wide lane, with smooth curves.

In between, we took one halt to fuel our stomach. It was a small canteen made of just plastic cover near a lake. It was a heavy windy region, but as we entered the canteen, it was quiet calm. We sat and checked out the menu. It was pathetic. All the canteens till now had the same things, chocolates and egg maggie. We had no other option other than to eat the same thing. We all were tired and exhausted and we can look at it in each other faces. Didn’t even felt like eating at all, but we had to fuel up. We didn’t even eat all of it, and came outside. I was damn tired. Just wanted to lie down somewhere, but no place, so sat on my byke and stretched to the back seat. My back was aching, my thighs were numb. My stomach was aching because all I ate since morning was a lot of egg Maggie and few chocolates.

All day, I was sitting on my byke, and was having problem in digesting my food. We were told not to stuff ourselves with more food, just have sufficient amount, but when I am hungry, I can’t resist the temptation. I was half lying on my byke when Siddhu called me up to take some pictures. The view was amazing near the lake, so even I didn’t want to say no to it. We took some snaps, when suddenly, a Sumo entered a scene. We turned back and saw two ladies coming out of it. Siddhu was overjoyed, and told me to check one of them out.


Out of surprise, one of them was wearing one piece. We were all covered with jackets and sweatshirts and there she was, standing in a windy cold region, trying to pose for a picture, and at the same time, was holding her skirt kind of dress as the heavy wind was playing games with her. All I can think was if Marilyn Monroe was alive and saw her, she would have committed suicide. Anyways, we still had a long way to cover, so we sat on our beasts and rode off. Dusk was approaching and we still haven’t reached Baralacha la Pass. We had to increase our speed more, but the road was becoming dangerous, but we managed. I gave Dhyani the control, and agreed to sit on the back seat. While approaching the Pass, I was damn tired, my back was hurting and a new thing started. My head started to pain. Earlier I was ignoring it, but the more we were approaching the Pass, the more intense it became. For some time, the surrounding view was relieving. What a beauty. We were on top of a mountain, and the sun was about to hide into the mountains. Dusk was never so beautiful. Huge snow capped mountains on one side, and few rocky mountains on the other, with an orange sky. My headache was getting intense but this beautiful scenery was distracting it a bit. I thought of taking a picture of it, but it was too beautiful to capture in a frame. Beautiful things don’t ask for attention. The only thing I can do was to enjoy and feel each and every moment of that scene. For a moment, my headache was gone, or maybe it was there but I was way too much awed in that moment that it was not affecting me. Maybe this is known as living The Moment. But it didn’t last long. My headache increased and when it reached extreme, I had to stop. Later came Sidd and Ujjwal, and were scared when Dhyani said I am not feeling well. Sidd asked me the reason, but even I was not sure, because I was the only one who was facing that situation. Sidd and Dhyani concluded that it could be some kind of mountain sickness and advised me to take some meds. Even I agreed with them, and swallow two capsules. I didn’t wait to recover and was back on track. It was getting dark, but the road was again smooth. We passed Baralacha la Pass in no time, but due to lack of time, didn’t took pictures, but carried on, on our track. While coming down, I thought that the meds are showing their effect, as my headache was still there but not intense, but backache was increasing exponentially. But there was no point of complaining about it. Everyone seemed exhausted but no one was complaining. All we can do was to cover the distance as soon as possible, reach Sarchu, and rest our bones. I was slowly punching Dhyani’s lower back to ease him from pain. After sometime, I again convinced Dhyani to give me back the control, and as usual, he got convinced. Now it was his turn to punch my lower back. Damn it was relieving, but not effective. We were speeding up as much as we can as it was getting dark. Half an hour later, we reached at a plateau region. It was already dark, and was not able to see anything apart from Siddhu’s byke tail light. I was at my limits, but was managing it somehow. Far ahead, we saw some light bulbs, continuous on both side of the road, in a
straight direction. WOAH!!!! What a relief. We finally made it to Sarchu. Reaching the region, I came off from the byke, and stood straight. Literally I can hear my back making funny sounds. But a small satisfaction was there, with all my pain. Finally, we made it. As I was walking to the entrance, a foreigner came up to me. He was holding a high resolution DSLR camera, with a camera tripod stand. He shook my hand and was so happy to see us all. He didn’t even knew proper English, but all he said to me was, “congratulation! Finally you made it. Amazing.” We met him the first time, but he was so happy to see us all, for no reason. All I can understand from his expression was what an achievement we had made, and he was there to appreciate it. He showed us his tent and invited us to meet up for dinner. We went to negotiate about the tent, but they were not ready to reduce the price. We were getting 1200 per two people, but it was way too much for us. In the end it was decided that we can’t afford it. My heart broke, but we had to move forward for a cheaper accommodation. I was not ready to even sit on that byke but what the group decides, is what is to be done. I was ready to pay any freaking amount for a bed, but it was too late. We moved forward in search of a much cheaper tent. A kilometer ahead, we found some more tents. I requested Dhyani to take this one. This was a much cheaper place as compared to the previous one. We got one tent, where all four can stay, with dinner for all of us in just 400 bucks, but it didn’t look as comfortable as the one we left. Dhyani and Siddhu went to arrange for some mutton, for dinner, while Ujjwal and I went inside the tent to set all the mattresses. We unloaded our luggage and jerry cans and placed them inside our tent. I was hell tired and even my headache was not totally recovered. All I wanted was to sleep. I thought that the reason for my tiredness was because I was way too much tired, plus I might have caught cold. I was lying down, shivering at one corner when Siddhu and Dhyani came up, and called us for dinner. I stood up, and ran outside. My stomach was hurting as I was not able to digest all the egg Maggie, and it came out. I ran out and started vomiting. After throwing up, I came back, and crashed at one corner. Dhyani came up and asked me if I am alright. I was shivering, nodded and asked for a band to cover my ears. I didn’t felt like eating and asked him to continue. I was down and within no time, BLACK OUT.

First Water Stream

After moving ahead for another hour, we were able to get one mechanic shop. It was supposed to be the only mechanic available for the rest of the journey. We took a halt and asked him to prepare the carrier. By that time, Dhyani and I, we went ahead in search of an ATM machine. We were down with money, and also, I had asked one of my cousins to send me some cash. There was no mobile signal throughout the journey so far, but luckily, I got a text message stating that my account has been credited. After transecting the amount, we went back and by that time, Siddhu and Ujjwal were ready, with byke and baggage. It was getting a bit tiring, and we have just covered 20% of our journey. The more we moved towards our destination, the more difficult it was getting, as the road was way too much uneven, and also, all the dust on the road was making it more difficult. Slowly, I was realizing why it is known as “the toughest road of the world”. But our craze for this journey was way too much as compared to the entire obstacle we were facing. The only motivation we were getting was from the other riders who were returning, and showing a Thumbs Up. No words were spoken. Their face was not even visible, just a mutual connection. Another motivating factor was the view of the mountains and the path on which we were riding. Splendid view of huge rocky mountain placed one next to the other, and a small path in between them, taking us to a far better world, that was still left to be seen. It was totally separated by the world that we all live in. Quiet and calm, nevertheless dangerous too. Sometimes, it’s sunny and shiny and the next moment, there is a black cloud over us. Frankly speaking, I love rain, but in that situation, I was freaking out every time I was looking at that cloud. If it rains there, we won’t be having any shelter, the roads will become muddy, and above all, there will be a huge chance of landslide. But, it was not meant to happen. That black cloud was there just to scare us, and after an hour or so, it went off. The main problem I was facing was the unevenness of the road. It was pathetic, plus a huge heavy byke. But somehow I was able to manage it. Later, the condition of the road was improved, and for about five to six kilometers, it was brand new. There was no better feeling than to ride a heavy motorbike on a smooth road. But, it didn’t last for a longer time. Again we were back on uneven track, but this time it was more challenging. This is where we had to cross our first water stream.

First when we were discussing about the path that we were about to take on, this water stream was of major concern. Everyone in their blog wrote that it was very difficult to cross those streams, as heavy current flows across the road. As per me, I was completely chill. Don’t know why, but I thought that it will be just a small stream of water, and we can easily cross it. As per the pictures I saw in Google, it seems quite easy. But images in the mirrors and in Google are far more different than they are in real. I mean, the moment I reached there, the first word came across my mind was FUCK. Bloody, streams were not supposed to be like that. The sound of water was so much, that I was not able to hear my own voice. I waited for a few minutes on one side of the stream, thinking, what to do. One wrong handle tilt and it’s all over. The stream was on the edge of the mountain, and it was flowing down into deep pit. Looking down, once again, was the huge mistake I made. Also, this path was itself not much dangerous on its own, but there was another factor added to it. There was a specific path that we should cover while crossing this stream. Bykers ahead of us took a different one, and the stream took his jerrycan along with it. Somehow, the other byker managed to help him, and he crossed that stream. Now, it was my turn. Always learning from others mistake, I took the other path, and always trying to be over smart, lead me into a deep trouble. I went into a non solid path and my byke got stuck. Plus the stream current was so high, that my byke was moving along with the current. Damn it was scary. Plus the byke was too heavy. Once again, Dhyani was coming for my rescue, but luckily, I was able to manage it myself and within no time, I was on the other side of the stream. Woah. What an experience. Despite wearing gumboots, water went inside them, and it was hell lot of cold water. Later Siddhu also managed to cross this stream, with the help of Ujjwal, and we were able to cross our first water stream. What an achievement. Bravo. They all were getting ready to do some photo session, and told me to take some pics. I neglected them, went in the middle of that water stream, there were some rocks. Sat on them, looked up into the sky, and with my arms open, I laid there. Siddhu was watching me, and shouted, “abee ooo Shahrukh Khan, pose baad me mario”. To that I replied, “maa chudaye shahrukh, saala yahaan peeth ki band bajj gayi hai. Mai ni aara abhi, thodi daer laet ne do”. And everyone started laughing. We splashed some water on each other, and later Ujjwal joined me for some sun bath. We did some photo session and after a quick laugh and a small talk, we were back on track.